Sintra
is one of those magical places where man and nature come
together in a perfect symbiosis, as if wishing to leave
us in a state leave of permanent surprise, enraptured
by the beauty of their joint efforts.
Known
in ancient times as Mons Lunae (the Hills of the Moon),
because of its strong traditions of astral cults, still
clearly visible in the region's countless monuments and
archaeological remains, the Serra de Sintra is a granite
outcrop roughly 10 km long, rising abruptly between a
vast plain to the north and the estuary of the River Tagus
to the south. It is a mountain range that twists and turns,
projecting into the Atlantic Ocean to form Cabo da Roca
- the headland that marks the westernmost point of' continental
Europe.
Cherished
and revered over so many years, the Serra de Sintra today
contains a fabulous collection of monuments from a whole
host of different epochs, ranging from prehistoric times
to the present day. This is a clear demonstration of the
region's great respect for other people and its enormous
cultural tolerance. Almost as important as the diversity
of the monuments is the tremendous environmental wealth
of the Serra. Thanks to its unique microclimate, Sintra
has some of the most beautiful parks in Portugal, planted
in keeping with a certain romantic taste, as well as a
dense and verdant natural vegetation, affording the region
an air of great majesty amidst the splash of different
greens.
The visitor can therefore choose between descending into
the Neolithic era at Tholos do Monge; enjoying the view
of the distant horizons from the walls of the Castelo
dos Mouros, an eighth-century Moorish defensive construction;
experiencing the harsh austerity of the Franciscan monks
of the Convento dos Capuchos; strolling through the delightful
mysteries of the Palácio da Pena, a mythical and
magical palace that seems more like a continuation of
the actual mountain; or savouring the nooks and crannies
of the Parque da Pena, a place of love and exoticism that
exudes great peace and serenity.
In view
of their ancient and heterogeneous quality, the group
of buildings forming the region's so-called historical
centre offers the visitor a fascinating trip into the
human past, a chance to feel and admire the different
ages that have provided so much history.
The
town of Sintra still retains its essentially mediaeval
layout, with narrow and labyrinthine streets, steps and
arcades. It is, however, dominated by the Palácio
Nacional, its main architectural feature and the most
fascinating regal construction in Portugal. This is a
palace that was not created just once nor in just one
period, but instead is the result of a harmonious and
seductive assembly of different parks, built in successive
phases and in a variety of styles. And it is these multiple
tastes and mentalities that have - largely contributed
to the strange beauty of this palace. Amongst its different
phases of building work, perhaps the most notable are
the two great periods that gave the palace both its shape
and character: the one led by D. João I in the
first third of the fifteenth century and then, a century
later, in the first quarter of the sixteenth century,
the one that took place in the reign of D. Manuel I.
The palace has been the setting for countless important
events in national history. It was here that D. Afonso
V was born and died; D. João II was proclaimed
king; D. Manuel I received the news of the discoveries
of India and Brazil; D. Sebastião departed to fight
the ill-fated battle of Alcácer Quibir; and the
unfortunate D. Afonso VI was so sadly imprisoned. This
palace was the preferred residence for royal leisure-seekers,
simultaneously serving as a centre for their recreation
and learning. Inside the palace, the bucolic poet Bernardim
Ribeiro could be seen strolling regularly through its
rooms, whilst the playwright Gil Vicente performed here,
João de Barros engaged in his writings, and Camões
probably read his Lusíadas to D. Sebastião
for the first time. Amidst the palace's labyrinthine and
surprising co11ection of rooms, courtyards, staircases,
corridors and galleries, one of the most notable features
is what amounts to the largest and richest set of Mudéjar
azulejos to be found in the Iberian Peninsula. In view
of the peculiarly peninsular quality of this type of ceramic
covering, this is equivalent to saying the richest and
largest collection of such tiles in the world. Visitors
will feel as though they have entered a Moorish palace,
the kind of which fairy tales are made. They will stare
in wonder at the ceiling of the Sala dos Cisnes (Swans'
Room), which reminds us of the marriage of the InFanta
D. lsabel of Portugal to Philip the Good, Duke of Burgundy,
marvel at the somewhat malicious revival of mediaeval
legends in the Sala das Pêgas (Magpie or Reading
Room), and gasp in admiration at the fantastic Sala dos
Brasões (Armoury), its glorious ceiling decorated
with the coats of arms of the Portuguese nobility and
its floor worn away by the continuous striding back and
forth of D. Afonso VI, incarcerated in this room for the
last nine years of his life. And, as they leave the palace,
they cannot fail to cast one last admiring glance from
the inside at the huge conical chimneys of the monks'
kitchen, the best known and defining landmark of the town
of Sintra.
The historical centre does, however, contain other monuments
of great dignity and interest that should also be admired:
the Torre do Relógio (clock tower), Igreja de São
Martinho, Paço dos Ribafria, Convento da Trindade,
Igreja de Santa Maria, a remarkable series of ancestral
fountains, such as the Fonte da Pipa and the Fonte da
Sabuga. And it is also worth paying an attentive visit
to the Jewish quarter, a group of houses inhabited by
the followers of the Laws of Muses.
On the
outskirts of the town are some of most beautiful and important
creations of the Romantic movement. At the top of the
Serra stands the nineteenth-century Palácio da
Pena, the delightful product of the dreams of an artist
king, D. Fernando, whilst at the foot of the mountains
magnificent chalets are to be found scattered here and
there, as well as small palaces such as the neo Oriental
Monserrate, surrounded by its exuberant and exotic park
and constituting a genuine botanical museum, and large
stately homes, such as the Quinta do Relógio, with
its neo-Moorish palace, or the Quinta da Regaleira, carrying
us back to the world of initiatory symbols. All this is
finally, a brilliant revivalist cycle that completely
transformed the Sintra landscape in a most remarkable
and seductive fashion.
In I924,
a sophisticated casino was built 1924 with all the delightful
atmosphere created by Art Nouveau for the entertainment
and enjoyment of the elite of the recently-formed Republican
bourgeoisie. This remained a great tourist attraction
in Sintra until it disappeared in 1938. Today, the beautiful
building of the former casino houses a magnificent collection
of contemporary art.